Barbecue season is upon us and, of course, we are ready. The propane tank is full, the smoker is on the deck, and we have just ground two pounds of sirloin to grill. Four pounds of firm line-caught salmon will be prepped this evening for smoking tomorrow.
As told in my story "For a Date, Eat it Raw" I prefer well cooked-meat; however, over the years I developed a taste for raw oysters, sushi and smoked salmon.
Smoking fish-to eat, that is, not to draw on it like a rolled smoke-is an art. As with most food preparation, we wing it, feel it, and may taste it throughout the process.
Here are some ideas for smoking fish:
We first start with line-caught King or Chinook salmon in similar uniform thicknesses.
Cut into similar sizes.
Soak in a brine of salt and sugar. We have found that using a ratio of 75 percent sugar and 25 percent sea-salt results in the best flavor, which is favored by most tasters. Sometimes we switch to a 50/50 ratio.
Place fish into a loosely covered dish and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.
The following day, uncover the fish. Rinse to remove the salt-sugar mixture and pat dry. Use brown or white sugar.
Then season it with a mixture of paprika, garlic and onion powders, and pepper. Match spices to your taste.
Let it dry a bit to form a pellicle-a dry film that forms like a thin crust. This step may take a couple or more hours depending upon humidity.
When the pellicle is dry, shiny, and a bit tacky to the touch, it is time for the smoker.
Moisten the cherry or oak chips. Smoke for an hour or two until it reaches the consistency and dryness that you prefer.
Enjoy with capers, creamed cheese, or alone.
A great resource for detailed methodology is the Fulton Fish Market in New York.